Thursday, March 17, 2011
March 17th Sans Drunken Leprechauns
it's all fun and games until you mistoss a flag and it hits a small child...
As far back as I can remember I have always known March 17th as Saint Patrick’s Day. Now, I’m not the least bit Irish, nor do I believe that everybody has a lil’ bit o’ Irish in them on St. Paddy’s Day. Watching the green-dyed bagels and Dr. Suess readings of yore turn in to green beers and belligerent dressed-up leprechauns, I was never really a fan of the day. I had no real reason to be. Sure, it’s all good and well that there are no more snakes in Ireland—but is that really what fuels the intoxication levels and sea of nauesating green?
And so, as March 17 quickly approached, I still saw no need to acknowledge it--especially not while in Italy. However, I soon came to find out that this March 17 marks the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy. Cool. This is relevent. This makes sense to celebrate.
In 1815, after the defeat of Napoleonic France, the Congress of Vienna convened to redraw the European continent. During this, Italy was put back to the pre-Napoleonic workings and subsequently ruled by independent governements.
Pius IX, the pope at the time, feared that a unification of Italy would result in his lose of power in the region and thus the possible persecution of Italian Catholics. While I’m not entirely sure how true the Pope’s intentions were, I admit they seem moderately admirable. Though, I’ll admit saying this is largely in hopes that the current pope will read this article and complete my goals of my stay in Italy: a picture of me and the pope captioned “Papa e Papa.”
But I digress. While there were many which feared and opposed the unification of Italy, there were also many who adamently believed in the necessity of uniting Italy. Radical figures of the unification movement were Giuseppe Mazzini and Giuseppe Garibaldi. During the uneasy times of an ununited Italy, there were many insurrections. The Carbonari was a radical group which sought the unification of Italy, and often used more extreme measures to express this desire.
After a multitude of innsurrections, expeditions, and revolutions, Garibaldi had made his way to Naples. He stated his intent to proclaim a “Kingdom of Italy” from Rome, which was the capital city of Pop Pius IX. Catholics all over the world took this as a call to action and sent money and volunteers for the Papal Army.
Despite their best efforts, the Papal troops were defeated, and Victor Emmanuel II arrived on October 9 1860 taking command. In February of 1861 Victor Emmanuel called for an assembly of the deputites of the first Italian Parliament, and on March 17, 1861, Parliament proclaimed Victor Emmanuel II King of Italy.
And so, we celebrate. Last night I wandered out of my apartment to find a variety of booths outside the baptistry. Various artisans were showing their crafts and the process behind them. While I watched the woodcarver with fascination for longer than most would, I soon became drawn to the sound of distant music.
Rushing to the source I soon found a marching band making their way towards the duomo.
I ended up literally marching with the band, both due to my bizarre love of marching bands and my need to photograph. The “Soundstreet Band” marched their way to outfront the Duomo where a giant crowd of proud Italians gathered.
This celebration brought to mind the words of a true Italian: Martha Reeves. “Calling out around the world, are you ready for a brand new beat?...They’re dancin in the street. This is an invitation across the nation.” They were literally dancing in the streets. Everybody! Everybody was dancing in the streets. It was actually difficult not to swing and sway.
The band formed a small semi-circle and various people took center stage and shook it out. As a person who has always hoped of being in a place the same time one of those flash-dance-mobs happen (though I think that craze has passed), I loved this.
People were dancing just to dance. They were celebrating their nation and the things that unite them. Be it a love of pizza, love of PDA, or love of Italy—the people of Florence were brought together in celebration of the 150th anniversary of the unification of the country.
The drunken masses of shamrocks and drunks and people pinching me for not wearing green were a distant thought. While the color green was still prevalent on March 17, it was mixed with red and white and didn’t feel so contrived. This March 17 had a much different feel than any other. It was nice to see people singing and chanting and dancing without their BACs coinciding with the date. Viva Italia!
And now, for spring break. Here's hoping my adventures in Austria, Germany, Switzerland and France don't end up in a one-woman expedition back to Italia from the tundra of Russia after falling asleep on the train.
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